Above: Jamie Stevens as Creative Ambassador for ghd

The Montebury: How did you get into hairdressing?

Jamie Stevens: My mum is a hairdresser, my nan is a hairdresser, my great grandad was a hairdresser. I used to play football because my dad used to be a professional footballer, so from about the age of eight, my dad was pushing me to be a footballer and my mum was pushing me to be a hairdresser. I obviously did the football thing first but my mum said that football can be such a short lived career if you get a bad injury, so she said that she would teach me how to cut hair. From about the age of ten, I used to go to her salon (she owned her own salon) and by the time I was fourteen, I had learnt everything from watching.

Where are you from?

JS: Somerset originally - my mum is a Surrey girl and my dad a Somerset lad. I opened my own salon in Somerset when I was eighteen and ran it for four years, until I moved to London. As soon as I left school, I went straight to college to get my NVQ level 1 and 2 and because I had already learnt everything, they let me skip the first year. I went straight into my level 2 and in my second year I studied for my level 3, and was teaching at the same time. So when the teachers were off, I used to teach the first years. I literally finished college, got my papers and opened my salon at 18.

What was that like?

JS: It was a little salon, in a small village where (no exaggeration) 80% of the clientele were eighty. They used to charge £1 for a wash and blow-dry, so I basically went in, gutted it, changed the name, advertised, and employed new staff. It took me two years to lose the old stigma, but I still wanted to maintain and keep those clients. They were my bread and butter - they used to come in every single week. It was hard work - really hard work. When my friends were partying at the weekend, I was working six days a week, nine to nine, trying to build the business up. I lost out on a lot - all of my friends went off to university, were out partying, I didn't have a holiday for three years and my love life went down the drain. But, I knew that if I put the effort in, it would pay off. Now, I go back and see my Somerset friends in their factory jobs whereas I am here in London working on TV and with celebrities.

What persuaded you to come to London?

JS: Because I always thought that I was going to be a famous footballer, I have always said that whatever I do, I will do it to the best of my ability. I knew I was doing well in Somerset and earning good money, but I was never going to get the opportunity to work with big hairdressers, be on TV and work with celebrities, so I had to move to London. My sister was a model and I brought her to London years ago, where I met Daniel Hersheson. When I moved to London, I told Daniel and he called me up and offered me a job. My girlfriend had just moved to London at the time, so it all made perfect sense.

What was it like working with Daniel Hersheson?

JS: It was the hardest thing I have ever done in my career. Even if you are a forty year old hairdresser, he makes you train his way for six months. So, I literally went from being a salon owner and manager, working with 30/40 clients a day, to holding Daniel's hairdryer and sweeping up his hair. I learnt a lot, but I nearly killed myself after six months.

You then moved to Beverly Cobella?

JS: I then met Beverly on a hair show, and got on really well with her. She offered me a job, so I left Daniel and worked for Beverly. I started as a stylist and built myself up to Art Director over two and a half years. I decided to build up my portfolio, so I did some session hairdressing and freelance work, and then I was offered a job on a TV programme called ‘The Salon'. They opened a salon on Regent Street called Bloww. At that time, I thought I wanted to be this naff old celebrity hairdresser, like they were. They approached me to be the assistant manager - I worked there for six months and hated every minute of it. It really knocked my confidence - they were ‘geezer' hairdressers. Fortunately though, Errol Douglas heard something about me, because I was in something called the F.A.M.E team, which is the young British hairdressing team. He must have heard through the grapevine that I wasn't happy, so he called and offered me a job.

You have had the opportunity to travel around Europe - did you pick anything up on your travels and what is unique about British hairdressing?

Where was your favourite place to work?

JS: Sydney. If I wasn't so into my job, I would go travelling and work out in Sydney for six months. Because I am doing so well at the moment, I don't want to have six months or a year away from it. The Australians are really closely linked with us and they are the second to British hairdressing.

What is so great about working with Errol Douglas?

JS: Well, Errol has been nominated for British Haidresser of the Year thirteen years in a row. He has just received an MBE and won Cosmopolitan Man of the Year. I have never met a guy who is as passionate about hairdressing as I am - he lives, eats and sleeps it. I have got such a good relationship with him, because there is no animosity between us. He knows that I am doing well and will hopefully build up to be nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year, at which time, he might not be. He supports me in everything I do.

What is required of you at Errol Douglas?

JS: Most large companies have art teams, but here, it is just me and Errol. This year, we are trying to build up the Errol Douglas art team, but at the moment it is just me and him. I have bought a lot of younger clientele to the salon because obviously being based in Knightsbridge, it is a posh area with a lot of money. Having someone a little younger with a younger training mixes the vibe up. I used to do a lot of training in the salon, but because I have been busier, I haven't done as much recently.

What is your favourite cut?

JS: If I ever had the option, I would go for shorter hair. I much prefer cutting shorter hair, I think it can be more creative and you can use more techniques.

In terms of hairdressing in the UK, who do you think (apart from yourself) is leading the way?

JS: Vidal Sassoon completely revolutionsed hairdressing. Sharp lines, edgy haircuts and all of the asymmetrical stuff. He is an absolute legend and has been around for a long time. Trevor Sorbie, he is a genius. Just in the fact that he invented the wedge and has nurtured so much big talent. Angelo Seminara, who is without a doubt, the freakiest genius - more avant-garde. It is incredible when you see it, because you ask ‘how?' and ‘where did you get your inspiration from?'. Trevor trained him, and he has been nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year this year, and he won it last year (beating Errol unfortunately). Nicky Clarke, who is not my type of hairdresser, but you have got to give him credit for what he has done. He really put celebrity hairdressing on the map. This is where I am trying to come through and do the same thing, but always taking inspiration from them.

Were you passionate about hairdressing in the beginning or was it just a job?

JS: I started on £25 a week, so it was never about the money. I can honestly say I was never passionate. I used to hate my mum, because obviously I was playing football and in the school holidays, she used to make me come into her salon and shampoo for her. But, when my whole football thing went down the pan, I thought that because I was also into fashion etc., I would do it. It was never about the money - I took a pay cut to work with Errol, but I know that with time it will be better.

Above: Jamie Stevens (left) with Gok Wan (right)

You mentioned that you work for ghd?

JS: I am probably not going to work with ghd for much longer. With the whole credit crunch going on, they have tightened their belts and budgets. Unfortunately, the artistic side of it has taken a big hit. Normally, I have a team of about nineteen. There was never any direction with the team before, so everyone would usually turn up on a shoot and cut who they liked. I went in and did loads of research, mood boards and discussed what we were going to do and figure out what is fashionable and what is going to be fashionable. I was always the captain of the team at school, so I suppose I like being organised and to make sure that everything is alright. Now, when it is my team, I said to ghd that there were some people who I thought were not good enough to be there. I didn't want them cutting hair on a shoot, because when it goes out to press, everyone knows that I am the Creative Ambassador, and thinks that it is my haircut. Nineteen people in an art team is too much for me, and I wanted to narrow it down to five people. Unfortunately, I did not have the power to do that.

What inspires you?

JS: You need to know your face shapes, and what suits those shapes. Big nose, big ears - you don't do certain things. You need to know what is hot and what is not. Being a top hairdresser, I will always try to give the client something that is relevant to fashion, bearing in mind that if you are working as a barrister, I am not really going to be able to shave your hair off back and sides, but you can still keep it cool. I always take inspiration from magazines and looking on the internet. It is great working around the corner from Harrods and Harvey Nichols - I am always looking in the shop windows.

What historical haircut inspires you?

JS: Elvis and James Dean are a massive influence for me. James Dean in particular - a real cool guy. If you look at a fashion now, it is all about quiffs and partings, but you put a modern twist on it. So for example, you crop the back and sides off. Flat tops are really big - I did a flat top last year and everyone this year is going to do it for the awards. That is where research comes into it - you need to research into what is going to be hot in a years time. If I cut David Beckham’s hair, shaved it off, and dyed a little tuft pink, that would be trendy.

Do you think trends in hair have a lot to do with celebrity influence?

JS: Oh, massively. David Beckham, George Clooney, Orlando Bloom, Tom Cruise - they are massively influential for men. The male grooming industry is booming at the moment. If you look back ten years ago, it was gay men who cared most, but now, all the guys buy moisturiser and spend a lot of money on their hair. Give it another five years, and you will see make-up ranges for men and it will be more acceptable. Why should a woman wear make-up to make herself look better whilst men can’t? 80% of my men are fussier than my women.

For men in particular, what advice would you give?

JS: I think styling is an issue. Since I won Men’s Hairdresser of the Year, I have had a lot of guys come in who have been going to the local barber. I did a cutting course in Leeds for ghd, and the girls there were really frightened of cutting men’s hair. I said to them, why look at a man any different to a woman? A man still has to wash and condition his hair and still has to put product in it. I don’t treat my men any differently - they still get a full consultation and I still explain how to use a product. I do get men who come in and don’t have a clue. Maintenance is the main thing - good shampoo and conditioner gets rid of the rubbish in your hair and keeps the moisture there.

Who cuts your hair?

JS: My sister is a hairdresser, her boyfriend is a hairdresser, my girlfriend is a hairdresser, my mum is a hairdresser, my nan is a hairdresser - take your pick. Errol has never cut my hair... not that I don't trust him, but I just haven't had the chance.

What is fashionable at the moment and what is going to be fashionable in the future?

JS: With my collection last year, I went along the lines of army boy meets James Dean. Short back and sides with layers through the top. There is a massive eighties influence coming back, so I think men will go a tiny bit longer. For the future, I don't think hairstyles are as random from men as they are for women. Take Posh Spice for example, she has a bob, so everyone has a bob, she has extensions, so everyone has extensions, she has a pixie crop, and everyone does that. With men, there is only so much you can do. Gent's hair is either military cropped and short, or a bit longer, two inches all over with messy texture or it goes into a classic sleek side parting. I think it is going to move away from the really short back and sides into a more tailored, sculptured look.

Do you think men are influenced by celebrity hairstyles?

JS: Massively. Men are more confident to bring in a photo and say ‘I want my hair to look like that'. Unfortunately, there are not as many cool guys - 90% of men come in with a David Beckham photo. For a shoot, I did a mood board and every haircut I wanted to do, David Beckham has had. He would be your ideal client. But for someone such as Gok Wan, because he is cool and into fashion, I will change his hairstyle. Unfortunately, he is contracted to keep the same hairstyle for a certain length of time, but now we have just finished ‘Gok's Fashion Fix' and he is moving on to ‘How to Look Good Naked', he will change it completely. I get loads of guys who come in and ask for ‘The Gok', not even knowing that I cut his hair. I think the two main men are David Beckham and George Clooney. Younger guys prefer David Beckham's style and older guys prefer George Clooney's.

You have worked with a few celebrities yourself?

JS: You get hairdressers who have worked with someone once, and they put them on the list. I blowed dried Kylie's hair a couple of times, and have worked with Stella McCartney, Gok Wan, Christian Slater, Sven-Göran Eriksson and Hugh Grant is coming in soon.

What are your plans for the future? Are you going to come full circle and open your own salon?

JS: Oh yes, even with Errol, I have never made it a secret. Because I had that at such a young age, it has always been what I wanted to do. I am not too sure if I want it yet, because I am doing so well at the moment. The TV aspect is what I want to pursue, because if you get a five minute slot on ‘How to Look Good Naked', it doesn't just build your image with the consumer, but in the trade as well. That is where the British Hairdressing nominations come into it. I would love to launch a product range and hopefully win Men's Hairdresser of the Year again. I want to build a Jamie Stevens empire. My sister is a hairdresser, and when I left Somerset I trained her and she took over the salon. She has been up in London for a year now and she specialises in colour whereas I specialise in cutting, so ultimately there would be a brother-sister thing that I would want to do. I have always said that I want to have my own salon and be nominated for British Hairdresser of the Year by the time I am thirty.