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ARNAUD CORBIN / Passion for Passion

the montebury magazine | interviewing the world of fashion

NEWSLETTER

ARNAUD CORBIN / Passion for Passion

For over 35 years, French brand ZILLI has been leading the way in the luxury fashion market. Practically inventing luxury sportswear and using some of the most exclusive materials (vicuna, chinchilla, ostrich and more), ZILLI has become a presence in over 30 countries and last year (2008) reported an annual profit of €70 million. Arnaud Corbin is one of the driving forces behind ZILLI’s presence in the UK. The Montebury met Arnaud at his Bond Street office to discover more about the man, the materials and the mission.



ZILLI UK Brand Ambassador, Arnaud Corbin (left) with ZILLI Managing Director, Laurent Schimel (right)
Photograph: Andre Ainsworth

 

ZILLI Spring/Summer 2009

Two-button open-worked navy cotton jacket, striped V-neck cotton and silk cardigan, cotton polin and linen shirt, cotton jeans, eel skin belt, calf suede and kid leather sneakers, Caelius sunglasses.

The Montebury: Arnaud, you are the UK ambassador for ZILLI. Tell us a bit more about your job.

Arnaud Corbin: The purpose of my being in London is to represent the brand and to be a direct link with Lyon, as well as to find partnerships with other luxury brands. Also, to make sure that the image of ZILLI is protected in the UK and to make sure that every detail is in order.

How long has ZILLI been in the UK?

AC: Since 1983. It was actually the first ZILLI store in the world that Mr. Schimel (chairman of ZILLI) opened.

Why London in particular?

AC: It was an opportunity for Mr. Schimel because he was working with a gentleman, a multi-brand retailer, who wanted to sell some of his shops. He had two stores here on Bond Street, and because it was too much for him, he suggested that Mr. Schimel use it for his first ZILLI store. Alain Schimel thought this was a good idea, it was on Bond Street, the best place in London and so the store was opened.

You are based in London, although your market certainly seems a lot more international. Do you get a lot of attention from the British market or is it just a case of following your international customers?

AC: It is true that we have a lot of Russian and Middle Eastern customers although I do think that ZILLI is an international brand and the purpose of ZILLI is to find the best quality for everything. Shirts, suits, shoes, socks, belts - I think everyone in the world can find something they want from ZILLI. For example, I am very classic and I can dress with ZILLI products from the socks upwards, it is just a question of quality. Obviously a garment such as the crocodile jacket will suit more a Russian gentleman than a British one, but everyone can find something.

How do you think the market reacts to ZILLI, especially to the fact that you use a lot of fur and animal skins?

AC: We do no insist too much on the fact that we are using furs, but are respecting all of the international rules regarding how the animals are killed. We do not buy ‘non-official' furs. Of course it can be an impediment for a brand to say ‘we are fur specialists' but we are not insisting too much on it. You can order any ZILLI product and ask for a fur lining, but it's not our main speciality.

Tell us a bit more about this - we know that you can walk into ZILLI and ask for a specific pattern, with a different cut and a different fabric and it will all come back as one garment. Is that something that has been available from the beginning or has it developed over time?

AC: It has been there since the beginning. Alain Schimel wanted to provide the customer with the impossible. As all ZILLI garments are handmade in our factory in Lyon, we can do anything. We have customers who say that they bought a garment in 1994, and would like exactly the same one. All the patterns are kept, so we can reproduce exactly the same garment - anything is possible. If you choose one garment, but want it in linen, cashmere, ostritch or lizard, it is possible.

There is quite a strong emphasis on the clothes being manufactured in France and on ZILLI as a French brand. Do you think ZILLI represents French style?

AC: Again, it is very international. We are the only brand in the world making these kinds of garments, so we have Japanese, Russian, English, German, Italian etc. - every nationality is represented.

Has ZILLI felt an impact from the recent financial trouble?

AC: Of course we cannot deny that this crisis is here, especially in London. But until now, we have been increasing our turnover. I think that the very wealthy people will continue to buy very expensive garments, cars and private jets. But, we are still very concerned about the crisis, which is why we are continuing to search for the best of the best. We do not want to choose the easy way by bringing down the prices and finding cheaper material in order to fit the current trend.

Have you found that your market has stayed loyal or have you seen an increase in a new market that has decided to start buying from ZILLI?
AC: We still have the same customers, although ZILLI will be opening two new stores, one in New York and one in Brussels. It was necessary for us to open a store in New York because the US market was very good in the 80s - we were selling about 500 garments a year. As we did not have a ZILLI store in the US, people were flying to London or Paris. The multi-brand stores then said that it was quite important for them to be buying ZILLI products although we didn't really have a flagship store or a presence in the US. I am sure that as soon as the store opens in New York, the brand will begin to expand in Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Miami.

 

“ A luxury garment is a garment that is made by someone passionate, for someone who is passionate ”

 

Are you going to try and do something new for the American market, or are you going to use what has worked before?

AC: No, we are going to keep the international look. Of course, as in every other country, we will choose very specific items. A ZILLI garment is a ZILLI garment. We cannot say that we have a French line, an English line, a Japanese line but you can choose more traditional lines for a specific market. I think the American market will be very similar to the British market.

What are some of the key things coming up in the next collection?



AC: We are still mixing different fabrics because it is very difficult to find new skins and new materials. Otherwise, you have to start using unnatural products (which we don't do) so that is why we try to, for example, mix the lining and the seams. ZILLI patented a chinchilla and cashmere blend and is the first brand to have done so, and last year was the vikuna and solid gold thread. In the next Autumn/Winter collection, we will have cashmere and chinchilla cardigans, with crocodile seams. That's what we are trying to do - mix different materials.

 

“ I am very classic and I can dress with ZILLI products from the socks upwards ”

 

A lot of people get the definition of ‘Luxury' entirely wrong. For you, what is luxury?

AC: For me personally, a luxury garment is a garment that is made by someone passionate, for someone who is passionate. I was in Lyon last week and I spoke to some of the people who produce the ZILLI garments, and I spent a morning with a lady who was sewing a ZILLI garment. We started to speak at 7:45 in the morning and finished speaking at noon. She was very enthusiastic about her job and proud to sewing one of the best garments in the world. That for me, is the meaning of luxury. Anyone who has enough money can buy cashmere and chinchilla for trade. But to obtain that quality, you have to be passionate.

ZILLI Spring/Summer 2009

Purple denim jacket, silk and bamboo short-sleeve roundneck pullover, cotton jeans, calf suede moccasins, boston embroided canvas travel bag, Cispius sunglasses.



For more information on Zilli, please visit www.zilli.fr.


— May 2009
 
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Copyright © 2010 The Montebury. All Rights Reserved.